MS National Geographic Explorer
Neko Harbour and Cuverville Island
Sunday, February 20, 2011

    Oh, joy! This morning we awoke to calm seas, little wind, and beautiful sunny skies. What a dramatic change from yesterday. We passed by Cuverville Island as we traversed the Errera Channel on our way to Neko Harbour. The sun glistening on the gracier-covered cliffs was magnificent. A full moon, still visible this morning, provided a natural prop to enhance our photographs of the scenery.

    At Neko Harbour, I first took a Zodiac cruise around the ice. A large number of crabeater seals had hauled themselves out of the sea and onto the ice. They were quietly lying in the sun, conserving energy. The water was still and reflections in the water added to the serenity of this locale.

    Neko Harbour is the site of two large gentoo penguin colonies, one near the shore and the other high up on the cliffs. Gentoo penguins are constantly climbing up and down the cliffs to swim and eat. Several small chicks were observed. Having been hatched so late in the season, these tiny chicks have little chance of being anything more that food for the skua.

    After lunch, we relocated the ship back through the Errera Channel to Cuverville Island. If you remember, I was on Cuverville just about a week ago. That last visit was in drizzle, wind, and slogging through goo. The goo is still there, but it was a bright sunny day on this visit. There are still a lot of molting penguins looking miserable. Many of the chicks are now able to swim and feed in the sea, so there was more activity than a week ago. A large number of skua on the island were finding plenty to eat in the form of young penguin chicks.

    Too soon the day was over and we had to reboard Explorer and depart the area. We are heading south and will pass through the Lemaire Channel later this evening. We plan to cross the Antarctic Circle sometime tomorrow morning.