MS National Geographic Explorer
Fortuna Bay, Stromness, Maiviken, and Grytviken
Monday, February 28, 2011

    The morning actually started in Fortuna Bay. Several of my fellow explorers disembarked from the ship and began a cross county hike following the final leg of Shackleton's hike to Stromness. I elected not to take this hike as it finishes up with a very steep descent on loose broken gravel. I wasn't sure how my bad knee would take that last stage.

    The ship repositioned to Stromness and I then landed and did a two-mile hike up a valley formed by a former glacier. The hike terminated at the waterfall that Shackleton descended (when frozen) on his epic crossing of South Georgia to seek rescue for his men left on Elephant Island.

    The beach at Stomness was littered with fur seals. Some were rather feisty. I met up with one that took a dislike to me and attacked repeatedly. All the usual methods of fending off the fur seals were ineffective. Others and I tried waving our arms, looking big. No effect. We banged rocks and clapped hand loudly. No effect. Yelling didn't work and neither did using a walking stick to try and fight it off. One member of my group tripped and fell and the seal moved in behind her and tried to bite her head, but we were able to distract it before it got a hold on her. She did have some souvenir saliva with all its bacteria, though. We were finally able to move as a cohesive group and get away from this persistent pest.

    After meeting up with the long hikers, we all reboarded the ship, had lunch, and sailed on a short distance to Maiviken. Here, I disembarked and began a 3 mile walk across hills, marshes, bogs, and streams to Grytviken. It was a beautiful walk, but challenging. It started as a steep uphill climb through the tussock grass with hidden fur seals. It then changed to a steeper climb up a wet, boggy, moss-covered hill. This was followed by a flatter, gravel-covered stretch before again becoming a steep climb up loose gravel. At this false summit, there was a gorgeous view of a pair of lakes.

    The trail then turned downhill for a while, before another very steep climb up more loose gravel and rocks. I hate having to reclimb altitude lost due to a false downhill. This reached the true summit of the climb, but led to a long descent over loose stone, then bog, and finally a gentle trail into Grytviken.

    In Grytviken, I visited the museum, strolled around the old abandoned whaling station, and we visited and toasted “The Boss” (Shackleton) at his gravesite. This was a long day with lots of welcome exercise. My knee feels the pain of a long day of exertion, but I expect it will be fine and stronger in the morning.